Repairs
Fault-finding first, parts second
Most ‘broken’ air conditioning has one root cause hiding behind three symptoms. I diagnose methodically, explain what I find in plain English, and only then talk parts and prices.
How I diagnose
Guesswork with refrigerant systems gets expensive fast, so repairs here follow the same sequence every time: listen to what the system is doing and when it started, measure — airflow, temperatures, pressures, electrical readings — and only then conclude. You get the diagnosis in plain English with a fixed price for the fix before any work starts.
“It just needs a regas” — usually it doesn’t
Refrigerant isn’t petrol; a sealed system never consumes it. If the charge is low, the gas has leaked, and topping up without fixing the leak just rents you a few cool weeks before the same fault returns — plus every kilogram of leaked refrigerant is exactly what the F-Gas rules exist to prevent. I find leaks properly, repair them, and weigh the correct charge back in.
Honest repair-or-replace advice
Sometimes the right answer is a repair. Sometimes it’s a plan to replace an elderly, inefficient system before it fails in a heatwave — modern R-32 systems can cut running costs noticeably on their own. Either way you get the numbers side by side and the decision stays yours. I install systems too, so there’s no incentive for me to keep a dying unit limping along on expensive visits.
While I’m there
Every repair visit ends with a quick health check of the rest of the system — filters, coil condition, condensate path, mounting and pipework — so you know whether the fault was a one-off or the first symptom of a system that needs some care.
FAQs
Symptoms decoded
My air conditioning runs but doesn’t cool. What’s wrong?
The most common causes are clogged filters or coils, a failed sensor, or low refrigerant from a slow leak. Low refrigerant is never normal — the gas doesn’t get “used up” — so if a system needs topping up, it has a leak that should be found and fixed, not just refilled.
There’s ice on the pipes or the indoor unit. Should I switch it off?
Yes — run the fan only if you can, and switch cooling off. Icing usually means restricted airflow or low refrigerant, and running the system iced up can damage the compressor, which is the most expensive part to replace.
Why is my indoor unit dripping water?
Almost always a blocked condensate drain or a failed condensate pump — annoying but usually a quick, inexpensive fix. Left alone it stains walls and can trip the system’s float switch.
Is it worth repairing an old system?
Sometimes. My rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than a third of a replacement, or the system uses discontinued R-22 refrigerant, replacement usually wins. You’ll get that maths straight — I don’t sell repairs that aren’t worth making.
What does an error code on the display mean?
Each brand has its own fault codes covering sensors, communication, fan motors and refrigerant conditions. Note the code and how it flashes — it makes diagnosis faster and often means I arrive carrying the right part.
Start with a free, no-pressure survey
I’ll visit, measure up, talk through what your home actually needs, and follow up with a fixed written quote. No hard sell — just straight answers.